Библиотека нематериального культурного наследия Республики Башкортостан
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KUMIS IS THE NATIONAL DRINK
OF THE BASHKIR PEOPLE
KUMIS IS A SOUR-MILK DRINK.
IT IS MADE FROM MARE'S MILK.
Kumis is known to the world from the nomadic culture
of the peoples of Central Asia, the Black Sea regions
and the southeastern regions of Russia.
of the peoples of Central Asia, the Black Sea regions
and the southeastern regions of Russia.
V century BC
The first mention of kumis was left by the ancient historian Herodotus, who traveled extensively. Back
in the V century BC, describing the life of the Scythians, he told about the favorite drink of this people, prepared by whipping mare's milk in deep tubs.
in the V century BC, describing the life of the Scythians, he told about the favorite drink of this people, prepared by whipping mare's milk in deep tubs.
XII century
Another famous traveler, Italian merchant Marco Polo compared the taste qualities of kumis with white wine.
1182
The first mentions of a drink made from mare's milk
in Slavic sources date back to the XII century. The entry was made in 1182 in the Hypatian Codex. The story tells about the campaign of Prince Igor Svyatoslavich, who escaped from the drunken from kumis Polovtsian guards.
Image source: wikipedia.org
in Slavic sources date back to the XII century. The entry was made in 1182 in the Hypatian Codex. The story tells about the campaign of Prince Igor Svyatoslavich, who escaped from the drunken from kumis Polovtsian guards.
Image source: wikipedia.org
The emergence of kumis is associated with the way of life
of nomadic peoples, who own whole herds of horses. Due to
the lack of agricultural work free mares were kept on beautiful
pastures, in the free steppes and gave a lot of milk.
of nomadic peoples, who own whole herds of horses. Due to
the lack of agricultural work free mares were kept on beautiful
pastures, in the free steppes and gave a lot of milk.
«
Alina Irekovna Sultanova wrote:
«Milk obtained from mares was
poured into one or more capacious leather vessels-sacks – saba (khaba). Speaking about the Bashkirs' leather currying, Johann Gottlieb Georgi noted that “for milk bags they curry camel, horse and bull skins as long as the
skin is made like a horn", and that they “sew these skins even before tanning with sinews and horsehair". The kumis vessel often looked like a cone with
a narrow throat; the contents were mixed with a long stick with a cross
at the end – beshkek.
«Milk obtained from mares was
poured into one or more capacious leather vessels-sacks – saba (khaba). Speaking about the Bashkirs' leather currying, Johann Gottlieb Georgi noted that “for milk bags they curry camel, horse and bull skins as long as the
skin is made like a horn", and that they “sew these skins even before tanning with sinews and horsehair". The kumis vessel often looked like a cone with
a narrow throat; the contents were mixed with a long stick with a cross
at the end – beshkek.
Johann Gottlieb Georgi pointed
out that “these bags were usually located to the right of the entrance
to their dwelling"; Ivan Ivanovich Lepyokhin clarified that such a leather vessel was installed “opposite the fireplace" on a special wooden stand – foot, “to which the bottom of the bag is nailed, and its sleeve or upper hole is attached on strings to the ceiling". This bag, according to Lepyokhin's observations, “every morning and every evening is filled with fresh milk and, having poured it, it is shaken in a few minutes with soured milk, which is always in the wineskin, so that fresh milk sours after mixing with old one".
out that “these bags were usually located to the right of the entrance
to their dwelling"; Ivan Ivanovich Lepyokhin clarified that such a leather vessel was installed “opposite the fireplace" on a special wooden stand – foot, “to which the bottom of the bag is nailed, and its sleeve or upper hole is attached on strings to the ceiling". This bag, according to Lepyokhin's observations, “every morning and every evening is filled with fresh milk and, having poured it, it is shaken in a few minutes with soured milk, which is always in the wineskin, so that fresh milk sours after mixing with old one".
In wineskins – turkhyk, sewn from
horse (less often cow) skins taken
from the upper part of the animal's
legs or from whole goat or sheep
skins, Bashkirs more often transported and stored kumis. “Their bottles called tursuk (wineskin) include from one bucket to two or more, and they are made mostly of whole leather, except for the bottom, which is sewn on".
On the inner walls and bottom of
old vessels there were always yeast plants (kur or esetke), which multiplied in fresh milk, and alcoholic, lactic
acid fermentation began.
horse (less often cow) skins taken
from the upper part of the animal's
legs or from whole goat or sheep
skins, Bashkirs more often transported and stored kumis. “Their bottles called tursuk (wineskin) include from one bucket to two or more, and they are made mostly of whole leather, except for the bottom, which is sewn on".
On the inner walls and bottom of
old vessels there were always yeast plants (kur or esetke), which multiplied in fresh milk, and alcoholic, lactic
acid fermentation began.
Mare's milk was often fermented in old canteens by itself, without the addition of sourdough. Johann Gottlieb Georgi commented on Bashkir kumis: “In other respects due to sourness kumis has such a pleasant taste, and at the same time is so nutritious and strong that it not only serves as food, but also makes Bashkirs healthy, cheerful, red-cheeked, portly".
If the vessel was new, then a little kumis, taken from another vessel with kumis, was poured into the fresh milk or an old one preserved from last year was used. Milk was poured into this vessel after each milking of mares, which were milked from two up to four or even five times a day.
After each pouring of fresh milk into the kumis
and in the intervals between it the kumis was shaken with special stirrers (beshkek), and after three or four days it was already suitable for drinking».
and in the intervals between it the kumis was shaken with special stirrers (beshkek), and after three or four days it was already suitable for drinking».
»
Sultanova A. I. Istoriya kumysnogo dela u Bashkir [The history of the kumis craft of the Bashkirs].
Young scientist, no. 27 (131), pt. 8 [online]. Available at: https://moluch.ru/archive/131/36522 (in Russian).
Young scientist, no. 27 (131), pt. 8 [online]. Available at: https://moluch.ru/archive/131/36522 (in Russian).
Curative properties of kumis
Bashkortostan is a region of historically developed kumis making and kumis treatment. In the second half of the XIX century Bashkortostan became a place of pilgrimage for famous people, who wanted to experience for themselves the curative properties of kumis. Anton Pavlovich Chekhov, Sergei Timofeyevich Aksakov,
Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy, Marina Ivanovna Tsvetayeva left enthusiastic
memories of the time spent on treatment with kumis in the Bashkir hinterland.
Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy, Marina Ivanovna Tsvetayeva left enthusiastic
memories of the time spent on treatment with kumis in the Bashkir hinterland.
Sergei Timofeyevich Aksakov
in his work «Semeinaya khronika» («Family сhronicle») wrote:
in his work «Semeinaya khronika» («Family сhronicle») wrote:
“
In the spring, as soon as the black-soil steppe is covered with fresh, fragrant, juicy vegetation, the preparation of kumis begins in all sheepfolds. And everyone, who can drink, from an infant to a decrepit old man, drinks a healing, gracious, heroic drink, and the senile diseases and ailments
after cold winter miraculously disappear, faces cease to be haggard, pale cheeks are covered with blush.
after cold winter miraculously disappear, faces cease to be haggard, pale cheeks are covered with blush.
Vladimir Ivanovich Dal'
wrote in 1843:
wrote in 1843:
«Kumis is the main food and pleasure of nomadic peoples.
It cools, quenches thirst and hunger and gives a special cheerfulness. Kumis never overflows the stomach, you can drink it as much as you want. Kumis is beneficial in all those diseases where the body requires nourishing and baby food. The consistent effect of kumis is detected a week later and earlier. You feel cheerful, healthy, breathe freely, your face takes on a good color».
It cools, quenches thirst and hunger and gives a special cheerfulness. Kumis never overflows the stomach, you can drink it as much as you want. Kumis is beneficial in all those diseases where the body requires nourishing and baby food. The consistent effect of kumis is detected a week later and earlier. You feel cheerful, healthy, breathe freely, your face takes on a good color».
!
The positive properties of kumis in strengthening the body and treating diseases have been known to folk medicine for a long time. People have successfully used kumis as a restorative remedy for vitamin deficiency and exhaustion. The first doctor who described treatment with kumis was a Russian doctor Nestor Vasil'yevich Postnikov. He expressed the essence of the impact of kumis on the human body in three words: «nutrit, roborat, etalterat»
(«nourishes, strengthens, refreshes»).
(«nourishes, strengthens, refreshes»).
By the middle of the XIX century this drink had become one of the most popular remedies for many chronic diseases, including tuberculosis. Kumis treatment has received scientific justification,
and the healing properties of this ancient drink have been
confirmed by clinical research.
and the healing properties of this ancient drink have been
confirmed by clinical research.
Recovery with the help of kumis occurs due to
the variety of enzymes, vitamins and trace
elements that are in its composition.
Mare's milk is enriched with
a large amount of protein, vitamin C, vitamin B. Due to these components immunity is strengthened. Phosphorus has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system, normalizes metabolic processes and improves the condition of blood vessels.
a large amount of protein, vitamin C, vitamin B. Due to these components immunity is strengthened. Phosphorus has a positive effect on the cardiovascular system, normalizes metabolic processes and improves the condition of blood vessels.
The curative properties of kumis depend not only on the elements contained in mare's milk, but also
on the new ones obtained as a result of kumis fermentation. During kumis fermentation protein, fat, lactose turn into easily digestible substances – lactic acid, ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide, etc.
on the new ones obtained as a result of kumis fermentation. During kumis fermentation protein, fat, lactose turn into easily digestible substances – lactic acid, ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide, etc.
As a result of fermentation a drink with a sweet-sour, tart taste and with a peculiar flavor is obtained. Kumis is a rich source of essential amino acids, an important supplier of vitamins, enzymes and trace elements. The microflora of kumis plays an important role in the accumulation of antibiotic substances that act bacteriostatically and antibacterially against E. coli and other pathogenic microbes.
Due to its qualities kumis has gained
fame as a metabolic regulator, it:
1
improves carbohydrate metabolism;
2
normalizes the absorption of proteins and fats;
3
accelerates diuresis;
4
increases appetite and the level of acidity of gastric juice;
5
removes toxins;
6
normalizes sleep;
7
has a beneficial effect on hematopoiesis.
Tub and stirrer
Kumis helps to cleanse the body of toxins, as it has excellent choleretic and diuretic properties. In addition, kumis helps to slow down the aging processes of the body's cells, maintaining the youth and vibrancy of the
skin. There is evidence that kumis can slow down the formation of cancer cells, thereby inhibiting the development of oncological diseases.
skin. There is evidence that kumis can slow down the formation of cancer cells, thereby inhibiting the development of oncological diseases.
There are very few contraindications to
the use of kumis. It is prescribed for various diseases, but in different doses and of different strength. Firstly, since the basis of the drink is
milk it should not be consumed by people with lactose intolerance. Secondly, due to the fact
that kumis contains alcohol its strong varieties
are categorically not recommended for pregnant women and children to drink. Thirdly, you
should give up this drink during the period
of exacerbation of diseases of the
gastrointestinal tract.
the use of kumis. It is prescribed for various diseases, but in different doses and of different strength. Firstly, since the basis of the drink is
milk it should not be consumed by people with lactose intolerance. Secondly, due to the fact
that kumis contains alcohol its strong varieties
are categorically not recommended for pregnant women and children to drink. Thirdly, you
should give up this drink during the period
of exacerbation of diseases of the
gastrointestinal tract.
INTERESTING FACT
Depending on the content of lactic acid and alcohol, kumis is divided into weak, medium and strong. Usually kumis contains from 0.2 % to 2.5 % ethyl alcohol. But strong natural kumis (only from mare's milk) can contain up to 4.5 % alcohol. For therapeutic purposes fresh and not fermented kumis or kumis of insignificant strength, the fermentation of which does not exceed one day, is usually used.
It should be noted that the Koran forbids Muslims, including Bashkirs, to drink alcohol, and kumis was allowed. That is why kumis was so widespread in Bashkortostan.
Mare's milk is not kumis yet
So how is kumis made? How does fresh mare's milk turn into a valuable sour-milk drink?
We will describe the process of making kumis according to the original Bashkir traditions in the Abzelilovsky district of Bashkortostan.
This was told to us in «Yaktash-N Ltd.» in the Abzelilovsky district, which has been engaged in the production of kumis for more than 40 years. The head of the family Nail' Zakiyevich Rakhmatullin is engaged in sales, his wife Gul'shat Amirovna is engaged in production, and his son Azamat Nailevich controls the grazing of mares.
First of all it should be said that the herds of horses are on
free grazing. Thanks to the local motley grass, as well as
the abundance of horse sorrel in this region, ready-made
kumis here has special taste qualities.
free grazing. Thanks to the local motley grass, as well as
the abundance of horse sorrel in this region, ready-made
kumis here has special taste qualities.
During the season mares are milked four to five times a day. Most mares
are milked traditionally – by hand.
It is necessary to milk skillfully, quickly. Mares get used to one milker and give milk more fully. The mares are milked from the left side with all or three fingers, without pulling the nipples,
but making movements resembling
the process of sucking of a foal. One mare gives about five liters of milk
a day. Machine milking is not entirely justified, since excessive noise creates stress in animals, and this affects the volume of milk produced. Manual milking is also useful for mares because an experienced milkmaid can determine the condition of the udder
by touch, do a therapeutic massage so that the milk does not stagnate.
are milked traditionally – by hand.
It is necessary to milk skillfully, quickly. Mares get used to one milker and give milk more fully. The mares are milked from the left side with all or three fingers, without pulling the nipples,
but making movements resembling
the process of sucking of a foal. One mare gives about five liters of milk
a day. Machine milking is not entirely justified, since excessive noise creates stress in animals, and this affects the volume of milk produced. Manual milking is also useful for mares because an experienced milkmaid can determine the condition of the udder
by touch, do a therapeutic massage so that the milk does not stagnate.
Traditionally the process of making kumis consists of
4 stages:
4 stages:
1. Milking. Mares are milked several times
a day.
2. Mixing with sourdough. Milk is poured
into a wooden barrel, where it is mixed with sourdough.
3. Fermentation. The mass is whipped with
a stirrer. At this time complex lactic acid and alcoholic fermentation takes place. This is the stage of the birth of kumis.
4. Maturation. Young kumis is bottled and allowed to mature. In a day it will obtain weak, but after three days there will be a strong full-fledged drink in the container.
a day.
2. Mixing with sourdough. Milk is poured
into a wooden barrel, where it is mixed with sourdough.
3. Fermentation. The mass is whipped with
a stirrer. At this time complex lactic acid and alcoholic fermentation takes place. This is the stage of the birth of kumis.
4. Maturation. Young kumis is bottled and allowed to mature. In a day it will obtain weak, but after three days there will be a strong full-fledged drink in the container.
How did «disinfection» help
create a new taste of kumis?
create a new taste of kumis?
During the whipping of milk on the walls of a wooden tub a greasy scurf forms. After a certain time it begins to sour and this affects the taste of kumis.
Usually the tubs are washed with hot water.
Some kumis makers additionally process the tubs with smoke, i.e., fumigate. It has been known for
a long time that smoke has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antiparasitic properties.
Some kumis makers additionally process the tubs with smoke, i.e., fumigate. It has been known for
a long time that smoke has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antiparasitic properties.
Smoking of meat and fish products has long been used for long-term storage of food. When kumis is prepared in a tub processed in this way it turns out to be special, «smoked» (in Bashkir – «yslangan») kumis.
It should be noted that many kumis makers are engaged in fumigating wooden vessels, but the idea to produce «cherry-flavored kumis» and «smoked kumis» appeared precisely here. Traditional kumis is obtained if the tubs are washed with hot water after fumigating.
In this way, thanks to disinfection of wooden tubs, «smoked» kumis appeared in the Rakhmatullins family. The process of making kumis is classic, but when processing wooden containers with smoke new tastes of kumis were revealed. Most customers order kumis in advance according to their taste preferences.
According to Nail' Zakievich, every 4 days, at the beginning of the preparation of kumis, they fumigate wooden containers with smoke of branches and leaves of alder and cherry. Such smoke is soft, gives a special flavor to the future kumis, soot is easily removed from the walls of the container with a dry clean cloth.
1
The process takes place in this way: a small fire is lit and covered with an inverted tub on top. Naturally, due to the blocking of air access, the fire inside goes out and begins to smoke profusely. During half an hour of fumigating the wooden container is opened several times so that oxygen enters and the smoldering of the fire continues further.
After that the wooden container is carefully, without turning over so that the smoke remains inside, moved away from the fire and left so for 2–3 hours. The smoked container is wiped from the inside and outside with a clean dry cloth, and the tub is ready to pour mare's milk.
2
To obtain 5 liters of kumis 3 liters of ready-made kumis for sourdough and 2 liters of freshly milked mare's milk are poured into the tub. (The volume is determined by necessity, the proportions are preserved.)
3
This mass is whipped with a stirrer for 1 hour until a thick foam appears. The fermentation process has started. At this time the tub is covered with a clean towel or with a lid and left for 2 hours to steep the mixture. After that you can already drink kumis, it's done.
Taste of kumis in every region and
district is different, it all depends on
the vegetation, the local climate and
the cooking recipe. The shelf life of
kumis is 48 hours from the moment of bottling in container. During the storage in refrigerating devices the shelf life
is longer, the kumis become stronger
at the same time.
district is different, it all depends on
the vegetation, the local climate and
the cooking recipe. The shelf life of
kumis is 48 hours from the moment of bottling in container. During the storage in refrigerating devices the shelf life
is longer, the kumis become stronger
at the same time.
Thus, kumis is a unique product, refreshing and toning, giving the body all the benefits of the substances contained in it.
No wonder it is called the «drink of bogatyrs». Kumis is still
a traditional drink among Bashkirs today. It is consumed as
an everyday drink, served at a meeting of guests, during holidays, family events. It is treated to travelers, neighbors, relatives and everyone, who wants to taste this healing and invigorating drink.
a traditional drink among Bashkirs today. It is consumed as
an everyday drink, served at a meeting of guests, during holidays, family events. It is treated to travelers, neighbors, relatives and everyone, who wants to taste this healing and invigorating drink.
References:
Sultanova A. I. Istoriya kumysnogo dela u Bashkir [The history of the kumis craft of the Bashkirs]. Young scientist, no. 27 (131), pt. 8 [online]. Available at: https://moluch.ru/archive/131/36522 (in Russian).
Sultanova A. I. Istoriya kumysnogo dela u Bashkir [The history of the kumis craft of the Bashkirs]. Young scientist, no. 27 (131), pt. 8 [online]. Available at: https://moluch.ru/archive/131/36522 (in Russian).
Библиотека нематериального культурного наследия Республики Башкортостан
© ГУП РБ Башкирское издательство "Китап" им. Зайнаб Биишевой, авторы, 2019 г.
Буй балас
Дорогие персидские ковры нельзя было увидеть в башкирских деревнях.
Буй балас
Дорогие персидские ковры нельзя было увидеть в башкирских деревнях.
